Filme sobre Yves Saint Laurent é muito mais que uma simples biografia

O final da última semana foi marcado pela estreia de Yves Saint Laurent nos cinemas brasileiros. Talvez o mais aguardado filme do ano para os fãs do estilista e amantes da moda, o longa dirigido por Jalil Lespert, conta a trajetória do designer à partir de sua direção criativa na Maison Dior, com apenas 21 anos. Mostra também a criação de sua própria marca, e revela que o sucesso demorou a aparecer. Num momento em que a alta costura estava em decadência na Europa e só se falava em prêt-à-porter, o filme conta como Saint Laurent conseguiu se adaptar como ninguém às novas exigências do mercado quando lançou a icônica coleção inspirada nas obras do pintor Mondrian, sem dúvidas um marco na história da moda e de sua relação com a arte.

Por trás de todo Yves Saint Laurent, há um Pierre Bergé

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Yves Saint Laurent (o filme) é, sobretudo, uma história de amor. E de tudo de bom e de ruim que ele pode trazer na vida de alguém. Com uma abordagem realista e cuidadosa na vida pessoal do estilista, o filme enfatiza da primeira a ultima cena seu envolvimento com Pierre Bergé, companheiro que ficou ao seu lado por mais de 50 anos e que foi sem, dúvidas, o principal responsável pelo sucesso de sua grife, uma vez que esteve por trás a todo o momento, administrando e cuidado de toda a burocracia que envolve uma empresa. O relacionamento dos dois é aberto em, como conseqüência, conturbado. De maneira cronológica, o filme mostra a transição das décadas e aborda o envolvimento com as drogas, os casos de ‘traição’ e o excesso de bebida que quase arruinou a marca. Em todos os momentos, Pierre Bergé esteve por trás servindo de apoio e mostrando o clichê dos filmes de romance: só o amor consegue superar certas barreiras. É preciso esquecer o presente e olhar além, a fim de construir uma relação sólida e madura, fato que fica evidente nas conturbadas cenas de brigas e até de perturbação mental que assombrou o estilista por alguns anos.

Um marco na história da moda

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A moda, no entanto, não assume papel coadjuvante na obra. O figurino é um show à parte: além de mostrar a mudança de vestuário entre as décadas (vale reparar nos incríveis estampados dos anos 1970), todas as cenas de desfile foram gravadas com o acervo original do estilista, guardado a sete chaves. Segundo o diretor, a equipe do longa não podia nem tocar nas roupas; tudo foi feito sob o cuidado da marca. A própria locação é original: muitas das cenas foram gravadas no próprio ateliê de Yves Saint Laurent, o que dá uma impressão ímpar de realidade, somada também à excelente escolha do elenco. O ator escolhido para interpretar o estilista faz dá conta do recado como ninguém. É um filme sofisticado, sensível e muito bem arquitetado que consegue abordar os dois lados do ser humano: o pessoal e o profissional, mostrando que, muitas vezes, nós somos sim aquilo que fazemos. Um dos pontos mais altos é a criação da coleção que finalmente incorporou o traje masculino no corpo da mulher: Le Smoking. Enfatiza ainda a coleção mais copiada de toda a história, inspirada em Mondrian e finaliza com as roupas inspiradas nas culturas de países como a índia, fazendo o link perfeito de suas viagens e experiências pessoas.

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Yves Saint Laurent é, sem dúvidas, uma obra completa. Não sou crítico de cinema (e nem o meu papel é esse aqui), mas assisti o filme e deixei a emoção me levar por toda a história, que arrancou lágrimas na última cena. Ele mostra toda a complexidade que envolve um artista, seja ele de qualquer que seja a área e ensina, talvez, a lição mais importante de todas: a do amor, e de que você precisa dele para seguir, seja qual for o caminho. Amar, se não ao outro, a profissão, a vida ou a si mesmo. É ainda uma aula de história da moda e uma obra imperdível para quem é fascinado por esse universo.

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Sem dúvidas, é um filme para amar. Mostra toda a complexidade que envolve um artista, seja ele qual for e ensina, talvez, a lição mais importante de todas: a do amor, e de que você precisa dele para seguir, seja qual for o caminho. Amar, s enão o outro, a profissão, a vida ou a si mesmo. É , sobretudo uma aula de historia da moda e uma obra imperdível para quem é facinado por esse universo.

Blogueiro e designer de moda. Também escreve no Sem Geração.
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